The best classic hairstyles for men, no matter what your hair type

The possibilities are endless with men’s classic haircuts. As with the mullet in the ’80s or the faux-hawk in the early noughties, trend-led hair choices are often the ones we’ll regret having in the photo album.

But sometimes they just work and while we’re not suggesting you don’t experiment with your hair (after all, it always grows back), if you’re going to be attending events that are being captured for posterity on film, what we do suggest is to experiment wisely (more on that, and how to get some of the most era-defining cuts ever seen on men, here).

So to help you out and to guide you on what timeless cuts would be good to make your own, we got in contact with five of the UK’s expert barbers to ask what they thought the most elegant, timeless haircuts are for certain hair types (and how to get them). Because if you want to look back on your time now with fondness and price, you’re going to want to make sure you had one of these classic cuts…

Curly hair

Straight hair

Thinning hair

Textured hair

Long hair

Carmelo Guastella, men’s grooming director at the Gielly Green salon in London’s Four Seasons Hotel, makes the case for embracing curly hair – but keeping it under control with the right products, for maximum sleekness (as demonstrated by Aaron Taylor-Johnson below).

Jun Sato

Why it works… “Most men that have naturally curly hair tend to cut their hair short to remove the curls. I always suggest they have the guts to embrace them. I like this style because it’s still a fairly short haircut, but showcases that natural curl – and it also feels contemporary.”

What to ask your barber for… “Ask for the top to be around 6 to 8cm, and the sides and back around 4cm. Also make sure to you ask to keep the hairline around the ears and neck longer over the ears, nothing too neat. Remember, a bit wild can also be elegant.”

How to style it… “Add a small amount of Redken Velvet Gelatine 07 to damp hair. If your hair is If your hair is dry and fizzy, use instead Redken Align 12.

“Ideally, let your hair then dry naturally, but if you’re in a hurry, you can also dry it with a towel if you wish (don’t towel it too vigorously as you want to preserve the curls). If you use a hairdryer, make sure you don’t blow direct to the hair: keep a low setting and blow hair to the palm of your hand redirecting the heat, or – best case scenario – use a diffuser attachment.

“When hair is dry, with the tip of your fingers lift the roots of your hair with gentle circular movements to give lift and volume. To keep frizz at bay, finish with a touch of Gielly Green Argan Rescue.”

Joe Mills, founder of Wolf in King’s Cross, makes a case for the classic versatility of a short back and sides for men with straight hair – as demonstrated by Bradley Cooper, below.

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Why it works… “The short back and sides is perfect for straight hair. It is a timeless cut and when styled well works with everything from a suit to a pair of shorts. Classic, smart and understated, this is the go-to haircut for someone looking for something elegantly simple. Works on thick and fine straight hair and can be styled with both a matte finish as well as something with more shine.”

What to ask your barber for… “This is not a skin fade or anything extreme, this is a classic scissor-cut look with roughly 4 to 5 inches on top, which is then layered into the back and sides. The back and sides should come off of the ears and into the nape of the neck. Taking a picture in so the barber has an idea of what length you are talking about can work well.”

How to style it… “Shampoo your hair then take a tangerine-sized amount of styling mousse such as KM Body Builder, distributed evenly in damp hair to give it some hold and control. Using a vent brush – I like the Vogetti Understudy Vent Brush – blow dry the hair up and back from the face, using the brush to style the hair. Once dry, use a 2p-sized amount of wax to style and hold the hair, such as Balmain’s Sine Wax. Apply with your hands and use your fingers to style your hair back. If your hair is finer or tends to fall forwards, you could finish with hairspray to hold.”

If your hair’s not as thick as it used to be, you’re probably thinking about changing up your cut. Anthony Komodikis, head barber and founder of House of Thrix, explains why a textured crop is not only superbly smart, but can also give the impression of a fuller head of hair (when the right products are used) – as demonstrated by our Jude Law.

Dominique Charriau

Why it works… “The textured crop is great due to its versatility. It’s great for different hair types as you can simply tailor the length and proportion between the fringe and the back. If worn flat and pushed over it can be very sophisticated and if worn with the fringe up with texture at the back, it would maintain a classic look with style.”

What to ask your barber for… “If you ask a barber for a textured crop, just make sure you are on the same page regarding the kind of length you are comfortable with as this style is traditionally very short. During your consultation with your barber I would advise asking them to maintain some length on the fringe, either to push up or across.”

How to style it… “Start by towel dying your hair and spraying in some sea salt spray before blow-drying – this will add body and texture to the hair which is a remedy for thin looking hair. I would recommend Murdock London Sea Salt spray. Blow-dry against the desired direction you would like it to sit in order to maximise body and lift in the hair, then finish by blowdrying into the fixed position you desire.

“When using a finishing product to style your hair avoid anything too waxy or gel-based as this will make the hair look thinner by binding the hair together. Best results will come from a dry matte product, like a clay, that isn’t greasy. My recommendation is Murdock London Matt Mudd. Remember less is more. Take a fingertip amount and lightly work it into your hands so it’s not clumpy, then apply directly onto dry hair and work it in different directions to get an even distribution throughout the hair. Finish by manipulating the hair into your desired finished position.”

Tariq Howes, award-winning barber and founder of Avenue Male Grooming in Ely, Cardiff, talks to use about why waves are the best classic style for Afro hair – as seen on Frank Ocean, below.

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – MAY 06: Frank Ocean arrives for the 2019 Met Gala celebrating Camp: Notes on Fashion at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 06, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Karwai Tang/Getty Images)Karwai Tang/Getty Images

Why it works… “The wave effect look is one of my favourites for Afro texture hair. It’s smart and timeless and can be worn with a suit and tie or jeans, trainers and a hoodie.”

What to ask your barber for… “The wave or waves is how a client would ask for this cut in a barber shop. This look appears when Afro hair is cut down to a certain length where the hair is no longer curly, but not quite laying flat. Usually, the best length for this to be achieved is 1.5 guard at least in the future with the grain from the crown – any shorter than this tends to have a less effective result, and longer lengths do still work but they just take more aftercare from the client. This is important as the same number against the grain will give a totally different look, and cut the hair much shorter. Starting from the crown and moving outwards at all angles is another important aspect when cutting this style because the crown usually dictates the growth pattern of the hair and direction. Now that the hair has been taken down to this length there will be a slight kink in the hair.”

How to style it… “Spray the hair so it’s slightly damp. Now follow the direction the hair has been cut in from the crown using the hard side of the brush, following the brush with a hairdryer over medium heat. The heat and tension will start to create these “S” shape waves by flattening the kink in the hair. After this you’ll need a light pomade – I prefer Uppercut Deluxe as it’s light, smells amazing and it’s easy to wash out. Spread this evenly into your hands and smooth it onto hair, again in the same direction as your hair. When this is done, get the soft side of the brush and brush the product through the hair – this will leave you with a wave effect on Afro hair.”

For many years, long hair on men was considered rebelliously anti-smart. However, thanks to trailblazers like Jason Mamoa, shoulder-skimming cuts can be smart enough to work even if your job involves daily suit-wearing – it’s all about getting the right products in your grooming cabinet. Stel Nicolaou, men’s hair specialist at Dunhill, talks us through it.

Albert L. Ortega/Getty Images

Why it works…

“When this hair length is appropriately cared for and hair health is maintained it works really well as a modern, professional and cool alternative to the standard shorter cut.”

What to ask your barber for…

“When you visit your barber, open up the conversation by talking about what your hair does naturally, whether you have any kinks or growth patterns that you do or do not like, and discuss what your ideal final look would be. I would always recommend taking a picture of the style you want to achieve – their interpretation may not always be the same as yours, leaving a rather awkward situation for you both!

“To keep longer hair looking smart, you should be getting it trimmed approximately every 4 to 6 weeks to avoid split ends. In-between cuts, use split end repairing products, such as Aveda Damage Remedy Split End Repair, which uses quinoa proteins to help fuse split ends back together.”

How to style it…

“The key to styling a longer look is letting your hair fall naturally – don’t make it do anything it doesn’t want to do. I see a lot of men that still believe they need to use a lot of product when it comes to styling – you don’t. Instead, start with a small amount of product and then build upon that to create the desired style if needed.

“It’s also about the right products – nothing too heavy. Start with a salt spray – I love to use Aveda Texture Tonic, which is a salt and sugar spray – then lightly manipulate the hair to add in some volume before leaving the hair to dry naturally, which will give a more rugged finished look. If you do use a hair dryer, always use a good prep product that help protect from heat to keep your hair in healthy condition.