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Republished source article: This article originally appeared in GQ. First-person statements, product selections, quotations and editorial-team claims belong to the original source.
By: Michael Stefanov
If you’re wondering how to style short hair, take it from someone who’s had varying degrees of “short” hair for most of his life. From a mod cut to a buzz to a wispy ‘60s style, I’ve had it all. I’ve learned that styling products for shorter hair are a different game than for longer cuts. Some lengths call for the grit and structure of a mattifying putty, for example, while slightly longer hair adheres better with a texturizing powder. Even subtle variations in short haircut length influence how styling products shape, form, and define your aesthetic.
“Finessing a short haircut requires a little time and the right product for the job,” Chrissie Schwalje, owner of Parlor Hair Studio, explains. “Too much product can flatten and weigh down the hair, while not enough can leave the cut undefined.”
Everyone’s hair texture is different, but the below will serve as a general guide on how to style shorter cuts and which products work best—whether you’re going for a bedhead look or something more structured. Warmer weather is around the corner, after all, and the tips below will teach you how to style short hair with ease.
The Best Hair Products for Styling Short Hair, According to GQ
- Best Styling Product for Buzz Cuts: Aveda Pure-Formance Grooming Clay, $23
- Best Styling Product for Crew Cuts: Blind Barber 60 Proof Hair Wax, $20
- Best Styling Product for Messy Textured Crop: Church Volcanic Clay Pomade, $30
- Best Styling Product for Side Parts: Highland Glacial Hair Clay Pomade, $28
- Best Styling Product for Caesar Cuts: Jack Henry Hair Clay Styling Product, $28
- Best Styling Product for Quiffs: Davines Energizing Thickening Tonic, $47
- Best Styling Product for Short Natural Cuts: Brickell Argan Hair Oil, $35
- Best Styling Product for Short & Tousled: Malin+Goetz Sage Styling Cream, $26
Buzz Cut
A buzz cut is clipped close to the scalp and following the natural head shape, with the hair kept the same length all around. “It’s very popular to buzz the hair down to about a quarter inch and let it grow out slightly for a softer look,” Schwalje says. “Freshly buzzed cuts can sometimes appear fuzzy, so I recommend using a grooming clay—it adds texture, eliminates excess fluffiness, and provides stronger control without looking greasy.”
Crew Cut
This cut features short, tapered sides with slightly longer hair on top. “I prefer using a wax here, utilizing the extra length for styling” Schwalje notes. Apply the product to dry hair, grooming it down for a clean-cut look or styling in various directions for a more unintentional finish. “Wax is perfect because it offers a workable hold with lightweight texture without being sticky or greasy.”
Messy Textured Crop
This cut keeps about two inches of length on top, with the sides and back slightly shorter. “I usually cut this style with my fingers instead of clippers to keep the shape soft and use texturizing shears or a razor to break up any thick or clunky areas,” says Schwalje. There’s room to play with the length, so don’t be afraid to experiment. For styling, a matte pomade works best. “Rub a dime-sized amount into your palms to warm it up, then scrunch and pinch it into dry hair to create shape. Matte clay is also great because of its dry, non-greasy finish—it holds volume and shape while giving that effortless ‘bedhead’ look. Plus, it’s reworkable throughout the day.”
Side Part / Ivy League
Also known as a collegiate cut, the Ivy League is a more polished cut defined by its smooth shape and pronounced side part. “The sides are typically short, faded, and tapered, while the top blends into longer lengths for combed styling,” Schwalje explains.
“For a sharp, structured look, apply gel to damp hair, set the part with a comb, and use an up-and-back motion to shape the style as it dries,” Schwalje explains. Gel provides a firm hold and a sleek, wet finish. However, if you prefer a softer, more flexible hold, pomade is a great alternative. “It allows the hair to be combed into place while adding shine, flexibility, and a groomed finish without feeling stiff or crunchy.”
Caesar Cut
The Caesar is very au courant and stands out from its crew-cut cousin thanks to its “high-and-tight taper fade and structured fringe that’s combed forward and cut straight across.” Schwalje recommends using a matte product here instead of a shiny pomade. “Clay works best because it smooths down flyaways and provides a natural, touchable finish. Rub the product between your palms, slick the hair down with your hands, then use your fingertips to add texture.”
Short Quiff / Pomp
This high-contrast cut features short, tight sides with a voluminous top. “I love these cuts for my edgier, punkier clientele,” Schwalje says. “The sides can be either super tight or softly tapered, but the top should be intentionally long so it can be blown back with height.”
For styling, she recommends a tonic while the hair is damp to boost volume at the roots. Then, blow-dry the hair back using your fingers to lift and shape it. Once it’s dry, “apply a wax to define the look as it holds everything in place while keeping the style flexible and natural-looking.” Pro tip? “Use a texture powder at the roots to add some grit, keep your pomp lifted, and ensure the style won’t fall flat.”
Short Natural
A tight fade on the sides with a slightly longer top works well for natural textures, keeping the style shorter while maintaining its shape. “Ask your barber to use a freehand technique to smooth out stray hair,” Schwalje advises. “Don’t go too short if you want some shape-up around the hairline, but you can play with how tight you go.” For styling, she recommends a soft moisturizing oil and brushing the hair forward for shine. If growing the top longer, “use a leave-in conditioner after washing and a hair sponge in circular motions to add texture and twist definition.” Schwalje recommends argan- or jojoba-based oils as “they lock in moisture and improve overall hair health.”
Short & Tousled
A tousled style is a go-to for that effortlessly cool, just-rolled-out-of-bed look. “The sides are about an inch long, with a bit more length at the crown and even more toward the front,” Schwalje explains. To style, she recommends applying a lightweight cream to damp hair and either air-drying or using a diffuser to enhance the waves. “A styling cream adds control, smoothing flyaways while keeping the hair soft and flexible,” she says. Once dry, “you should have a natural, lived-in finish with no sticky residue.”
Bald Is Beautiful
If you rock a bald look, proper scalp care is essential. “Sunscreen is a must, even in winter,” Schwalje advises. “Look for a non-comedogenic formula that won’t clog pores.” She also suggests avoiding overly oily formulas: “Too much shine can be distracting, and don’t forget to blend in your sunscreen so there aren’t any streaks.”
Tips for Styling Short Hair
Hair Texture
Your hair type factors in when choosing the right product for styling shorter cuts. “It’s important to think about how your hair lays, what it wants to do, and what you’re working with,” says Schwalje. “You never want to fight against your hair’s natural tendencies.” Overall, look for products that moisturize and add shine to enhance the definition of curly textures. With straight or wavy hair, look for clays and waxes for texture and hold. If you have fine hair, opt for volume-boosting products like texture powders and matte wax to create lift without weighing it down.
Less Is More
“A little goes a long way with most waxes and pomades,” Schwalje advises. “Always start with just enough to lightly coat the palms of your hands—you can always add more if needed.” However, if you’re styling a pomp or quiff, don’t be afraid to use a generous amount of wax. “These styles need more product for structure and hold.”
Matte vs. Shine
Your choice of finish depends on the look you’re going for. “An Ivy League style works well with a shinier product for a polished look,” Schwalje explains. “On the other hand, a tousled, textured cut benefits from a matte pomade which gives that bedhead, lived-in feel, whereas non-matte products allow more flexibility and movement.”
Hands vs. Comb
To keep styling short haircuts simple, Schwalje recommends ditching the brush. “Use your fingers to pull and push the hair in the direction you want. Set your blow-dryer’s airflow to follow that movement.” When applying product, your hands are your best tool. “You’ll be able to feel how it’s working in your hair and whether you need to add more.”
Meet the Expert
Owner of the Parlor Hair Studio in Montclair, NJ, Schwalje brings over 25 years of expertise in cutting men’s hair. Her passion for the industry began in the early 2000s at the Sassoon Academy in San Francisco, and she has worked in research and development for Redken. Since then, she’s earned a reputation as a master stylist, with a focus on men’s grooming. Schwalje blends precision with creative expression, developing a unique cutting style tailored to each individual’s needs and preferences. She views haircutting as a form of architecture, believing that every shape can be crafted with a thoughtful blueprint. Follow Schwalje on Instagram @chrissiedoeshair and @parlorhairstudio.
Source: GQ
Original publication date: 2025-03-06T16:14:13.420-05:00
