How to grow and trim a handlebar moustache

The handlebar moustache is probably one of the most iconic, most unique ‘tache styles ever. While its origins are a little sketchy, similar styles have been spotted on statues and other depictions of Iron Age Celts. Over in the US, Wild West figures like Wyatt Earp rocked ’em on the daily, and in Europe, handlebar moustaches were commonly worn by soldiers during World War I.

Handlebar moustaches eventually became synonymous with wrestler Hulk Hogan. Sam Elliott had a glorious one in 1998’s The Big Lebowski, as did Daniel Day-Lewis in 2002’s Gangs of New York. It’s not a style that every guy can pull off, but if you really want to give it a go, come with us as we chat with TJ Hunt, barber at Time Shoreditch, and Luke Davies, co-founder at Supply 91, to find out everything that you need to know. We’ll also talk about how to use your trimmer, shaver, and razor the right way, and all the stuff you’ll need in your trusty beard kit.

So, what exactly is a handlebar moustache? Well, essentially, it’s a ‘tache where the ends have been left to grow to an exaggerated length in comparison to the rest of the upper lip.

“These longer ends are then twisted into strands and styled to point upwards, often using a wax,” says Hunt. “It’s a strong, distinctive look that gained popularity in the 19th century and is synonymous with cool cowboys. It still has many fans today, who often team it with a longer beard than was the norm during the OG period.”

“The handlebar moustache is a stone-cold classic,” says Davies. “Thanks to its signature ends that curl upwards, it gives off a bold, confident vibe that loads of men look for.”

Cool, you’ve decided that you want a handlebar moustache. That’s great! But before you commit and tell all your mates about it, you need to make sure that it actually suits your face shape. Thankfully, you’ll be glad to hear that it actually works with a pretty wide selection of shapes.

“If you have a narrow face, such as an oval or rectangular one, then a handlebar will add width to give a more flattering profile,” says Hunt. “It’d look even better when combined with a beard. With this style, it’s also worth remembering that it’s as much about your overall look as your face shape. For example, if you combine a handlebar with rugged garms such as selvedge denim and workwear jackets, it can look masculine and confident. However, chuck on a vintage nylon tracksuit, and you risk looking like an ’80s footballer. Pull out the smoking jacket and cravat, and you could be in porn star territory.”

“While it does work on a lot of different face shapes, admittedly, this one is for the more structurally gifted,” says Davies. “If you’ve got a solid, angular jaw, you’ll be looking just like Tom Selleck, and it’ll really complement your face.”

Even though it only accounts for a relatively small area of your face, it actually takes quite a while to grow a solid handlebar mo’, so you’ll need a bit of time and a bit of patience.

“Start by growing a regular moustache, this can take a good few weeks to reach a decent level of length and thickness,” says Hunt. “Once you’re there, then you can proceed to keep it neat and tidy around the lower lip area whilst leaving the ends to continue their growth journey. Once it gets long enough, start to twist the ends outwards and upwards with your thumb and forefinger, adding wax as required. If you want a proper, chunky, longer version, then you’ll also need some length in the middle to comb outwards, but concentrate on the ends first and foremost.”

“It’s worth noting that the maintenance part is equally as important as the growing part,” says Davies. “When it’s a good length, you need to make sure that you’re trimming it regularly so that it maintains that classic shape and looks neat. There’s nothing worse than a handlebar gone rogue.”

To best style your newly grown handlebar, you’ll need two weapons: a narrow-toothed comb and moustache wax. If you want to double up on mug and mo’ to keep your bathroom cabinet minimal, you can also use a strong hair wax.

“It goes without saying, but make sure you like the fragrance of whatever wax you choose to stick in there, as it’s directly below your nostrils,” says Hunt. “Whilst the manly scent of charred embers may seem initially appealing, it’ll likely wane quickly after a few hours of inhalation. We prefer mild-scented formulas such as Captain Fawcett’s Sandalwood Moustache Wax or Davines’ Strong Dry Wax. Begin by combing the hairs downwards to prevent any tangles or snagging before combing outwards in either direction from the centre. Once combed through, scoop some wax onto your forefinger and rub with your neighbouring thumb to emulsify. Twist the ends outwards and upwards until you get an impressive thin taper.”

“After that’s done, work a few drops of beard oil in to keep the hair soft and healthy,” says Davies. “Look for products that are packed with vitamin E, nourishing oils, and natural ingredients to prevent dryness.”

You’ve got the knowledge; now you need the gear. If you want the ultimate handlebar moustache, you’ll need a pair of high-quality moustache scissors, a fine-toothed moustache comb (plastic or wood will do perfectly fine), a mirror, and some good lighting.

It’s totally optional, but you might also want to invest in a decent trimmer. Just make sure it’s cordless so you won’t have to deal with annoying wires. You can also grab a hairdryer to hold the wax faster, but this isn’t a necessity.