How to grow and style a pencil moustache

The pencil moustache is probably one of the most iconic styles in the history of mankind. While it was first introduced in the mid-1800s, it didn’t start gaining popularity until the 1930s when big Hollywood actors like Clark Gable and Errol Flynn started rocking ’em on the daily.

Since then, other very famous guys like Johnny Depp, Michael B. Jordan, and The Weeknd have donned the pencil. Most recently, Timothée Chalamet, who usually likes to keep everything nice and clean-shaven, started wearing one on the top of his lip. And while the internet was pretty stunned to begin with, we got used to it. In fact, it seems it’s thanks to him that the classic style has resurfaced.

But growing and styling the perfect pencil moustache is no easy feat. If you want one of your own, you’re going to need a lot of time, patience, and a very steady hand. Luckily for you, TJ Hunt, barber at Time Shoreditch, and Luke Davies, co-founder at Supply 91, are here to tell you exactly what to do, and what not to do, if you want to keep it looking sharp. They’ll also let you in on how to use your trimmer, shaver, and razor properly, and everything you’ll need in your beard kit.

A pencil moustache is basically a neat, thin strip of hair that runs above the upper lip. When this style first debuted, the rest of the facial hair was completely clean-shaven to really accentuate the ‘tache. However, the look has made a bit of a comeback lately when teamed with stubble or a short beard.

“The pencil moustache is also called the pencil line moustache,” says Hunt. “It can either run the entire length of the upper lip or can be split right down the middle. Whatever style you end up going for, they look best when the lines are kept sharp and crisp.”

“We can all thank Timothée Chalamet for this resurgence,” says Davies. “It’s an acquired taste, and it’s definitely a high-maintenance look. But in the right cases, it looks elegant and suave. Brad Pitt has carried it more than a few times, and while you’ll probably never be as talented as him or as handsome as him, at least you can have the same moustache as him.”

So, you’ve decided that you want a pencil moustache. That’s great! But before you commit and tell all your mates about it, you need to make sure that it actually suits your face shape. That said, you’ll be glad to hear that it actually works with a lot of different face shapes for differing reasons.

“If you have an oval or heart-shaped face, then you’re particularly in luck as a pencil moustache can complement and add to the symmetry, whilst drawing attention to the lips,” says Hunt. “If your face is round, then a thin moustache can add definition and make the face appear longer.”

“Sure, this style suits almost everyone,” says Davies. “But it shines the most on those with a predominantly square face shape. It works extremely well on guys who have defined cheekbones and a strong jawline.”

For the past century and a half, the pencil moustache has stayed relatively the same. But over the years, it has spawned multiple offshoots and spin-offs. In many ways, the legendary handlebar is very similar to it. This can either be spread downwards from the edge of the lips (think Hulk Hogan) or, where the ends are left longer, twizzled to a point with wax (think Salvador Dali).

“The walrus is also, in ways, a type of pencil,” says Hunt. “The whole beast is left thick and sits just over the lip, like a big ol’ furry slug. The chevron is too, where the upper lip carpet resembles an upward-facing arrowhead. The toothbrush is where the only bit of moustache remaining sits in a rectangular shape directly below the nostrils. Basically, there’s a pencil mo’ for everyone. You’ve just gotta find your favourite, so why not try a few out along the way?”

What makes a pencil moustache a pencil moustache is just how sharp it is. To achieve this look, you’ll need a steady hand and regular sessions in front of the mirror to make yours a fine example. You can use a wet razor to clear the area around the ‘tache and get the smoothest backdrop. However, we’d recommend using the bare blade of a clipper or sharp scissors on the main event.

“Start at the base by following the shape of the lips to get your lower outline, maybe a centimetre or so above the top lip,” says Hunt. “Be careful not to go too high, or it could look a bit strange. For the upper outline, follow the shape below but start high and cut into the ‘tache with the bare blade pointing downwards against the direction of growth. Slowly tap downwards until you reach the desired width before refining with scissors or the corner of the clipper blade.”

“You’ll need to gauge it by eye, so make sure you take your time,” says Davies. “If you’re looking for the ultimate trimmer, the Andis Slimline Pro is a top choice. It’s powerful, it’s precise, and it’s perfect for tackling those awkward angles while keeping the finish clean and sharp. Or, better yet, just let your barber handle it!”

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